We went to see the sights in Scandinavia, but birds kept getting in the way

By Anders Gyllenhaal

When I climbed to the outdoor top of the famous Opera House in Oslo, Norway, I could see most of the downtown, the busy harbor and the ships coming and going from the North Sea.

European Henning Gull sits atop the Opera House in Bergen, Norway.
A European Herring Gull visting the Oslo, Norway, Opera House. Above the Bergen waterfront. Photos by Anders Gyllenhaal

The view also included a very friendly and stubborn European Herring Gull, perched on the best corner of the balcony and unwilling to move no matter how close you got.

We were touring Scandinavia to celebrate our 40th wedding anniversary and see the part of the world where my family came from. There wasn’t much time for bird photography – and we decided to stay mostly in the cities of Stockholm, Copenhagen, Bergen, Stavanger and Oslo.

But I was struck to find no shortage of species adapting to urban life despite the most beautiful fjords, mountains and islands in the world just around the corner. So along with shooting the magnificent hallmarks, many of which are centuries old, I couldn’t help but keeping watch for birds.

How Scandinavian cities embrace birds

It turns out that Scandinavian cities stand out for making room for their birds. They boast more open space and trees than anywhere else in Europe. In Oslo, 98 percent of residents live within a thousand feet of a park, greenway or protected area, and the figures are high in all these cities.

A line of Great Cormorants fill a small island near Stockholm, Sweden
Great Cormorants fill an island near Stockholm.

Since many cities are rich in waterways and islands, so is the population of gulls, terns, and cormorants. Ducks and geese are especially plentiful. So much so they are adapting their feeding routines to human schedules, such as school and waste facility openings. The healthy environment, a singular emphasis here, also provides a wealth of natural food sources. I loved this photo of a herring gull flying down the busy harbor in Bergen, Norway, with a star fish in its mouth, plucked from a downtown channel filled with marine life.

A Herring Gull rushes off with its prized meal, a starfish it just snagged.
A herring gull rushes off with its prized starfish.
We ran into White Wagtail, found all across Europe and Asia, almost everywhere we went.
White Wagtails, found in Europe, Asia and parts of Africa, were everywhere we went

Naturally, the birds we found tended to be the most adaptable of species, such as the White Wagtail, a small, frenetic species that constantly flicks its tail and bobs its head. Another is the Mute Swan, which can build its nest right up against homes and businesses. We ran into a Greylag Goose, unafraid of the crowds, hanging around the castle of an early king of Denmark

Like almost everywhere in the world, House Sparrows constantly prowl the streets, sidewalks and cafes in search of bits of food. Only these aren’t the invasive variety that have flooded the U.S. This is the Old World native species that started the global takeover decades ago.

Studies dig into what makes a difference

A House Sparrow, while invasive species in many parts of the world, are native in Scandinavia.
House Sparrow

The importance of making room for birds in cities is documented in scientific research. A study published just this month in Nature examined birdlife at 30 sites in Gothenburg, Sweden, comparing densely developed neighborhoods with greener parts of the city.

Not surprisingly, the greener areas supported more species. But the researchers found something particularly useful for growing cities: even in densely developed neighborhoods, bird diversity increased when there was more natural habitat nearby and when those patches were connected to larger green areas. In other words, an isolated park helps, but a network of parks, trees and natural corridors can help even more.

Scandinavian countries have something to teach us

Many of the places we visited built their urban settings well before the realization that the world is losing its bird populations. The challenge now is to make sure they don’t lose more ground as these cities grow. Scandinavian countries, which have adopted the most stringent environmental strategies in the world, are among the best places to keep their birds.

A Mute Swan swim the waters near Stockholm, Sweden.
A Mute Swan near Stockholm, Sweden.

I especially loved seeing the flocks of birds circling the historic buildings, churches and squares. One of my favorite photos is this gull zipping past one of Bergen’s famously colorful waterfront homes and shops.

With the deep orange background, it’s not the usually setting for a bird photo. But it’s the perfect symbol for what we found in Sweden, Denmark and Norway where populations of birds and people have learned to coexist.

A Henning Gull flies along the colorful waterfront in Bergen.
A European Herring Gull flies past the colorful waterfront in Bergen.
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3 responses to “We went to see the sights in Scandinavia, but birds kept getting in the way”

  1. I love that you were birding in the cities as you travelled and obviously learned a lot about how we can learn from them as well. Fantastic photos!

  2. What an informative and engaging post — with the usual stunning photographs! In this dark time for American wildlife, it’s comforting to see how other countries are coping. Thank you!

  3. Happy Anniversary — and what a special gift to share! Lorna

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